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Mammy market: A melting pot of soldiers, civilians

At the mammy market located in front of the barracks of the 72 Battalion, Nigerian Army in Makurdi, the Benue State capital, soldiers and civilians often gather to unwind, enjoying local food and drinks.

Weekend Trust reports that the market attracts patronage across the state despite the present economic hardship facing the country. The market thrives on local foods and brewed drinks, plus a lively atmosphere.

A civilian and frequent visitor to the market, Denen Achusa, told our correspondent that he found joy mingling with soldiers. He was accompanied by his friend, a professor from the Federal University, Lafia, to enjoy local foods and drinks, as well as a peaceful atmosphere.

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“The food here is special. It is a mixture of maize and groundnut, a local snack that makes you reach out for water. It is something to nibble on while waiting for the main dish like pounded yam. Then there’s the peppered ‘pomo’ (cow skin), which is a crowd favourite,” Achusa said.

For Achusa, the market’s appeal goes beyond the food. He explained, “The tight security in the market makes it ideal for relaxation. There’s a level of discipline here that you don’t find elsewhere. You even have to pay a little fee to use the conveniences, which are kept clean. You can find all sorts of things, from food to drinks and clothing.”

He added that freedom of interaction is the point of attraction for him, saying, “I come here to talk freely with serving soldiers, retired veterans and civilians. It is a perfect spot for anyone seeking a good time in Makurdi.”

Weekend Trust recalls that Mrs Mammy Marian Ochefu, the wife of the late former military governor of the defunct East-Central State, Colonel Anthony Aboki Ochefu, during an interview at her number 6, old Otobi Road, GRA home in Otukpo, narrated how the mammy market started with the sale of an Idoma local drink (enyi) produced from guinea corn.  It is believed that the woman established the first mammy markets in army barracks across Nigeria. 

The now 80-year-old grandmother etched her name in Nigeria’s history as a result of her entrepreneurial spirit when, as a young soldier’s wife, she started selling “enyi” (a local non-alcoholic beverage) in Abakpa barracks, Enugu State in 1958.

Born during a work transit from Otukpo to Ankpa, Mammy’s father named her “Ene’m” (my mother in Idoma tradition). However, a mispronunciation from his British master led to the name, Mammy, which stuck with her.

Years later, as her enyi business continued to grow in Abakpa barracks, soldiers relocated her to a makeshift stall in 2 Battalion Barracks, Kaduna (1958-1959). This pattern was repeated in Ibadan and Zaria. It is said that former President Muhammadu Buhari was one of her customers.

In Lagos, Mammy’s popularity increased and her shop became known as “Mammy Market.” She officially registered the name and obtained a licence. Today, mammy market is a household name in Nigerian military formations nationwide.

Mammy’s legacy lives on through many other women like Mama Mary Nogor, one of the leaders in Benue’s mammy market, who explained how a local beverage has become the lifeblood of the market, drawing in both soldiers and civilians in their numbers. 

She said that from sunrise to sundown, the market booms as people troop to the place, not just for food and the locally brewed drink but other social activities.

“The patronage may be low now due to the economic situation in the country, but people still come here’’, she said.

People from Wurukum, Wadata and High Level, as well as other parts of Makurdi come here. We have both soldiers and civilians who frequent this mammy market daily, between 7am and 7pm. 

“My husband is a civilian, but I am comfortable doing business here. This market is ideal for our customers because of the security it provides – there is an assurance that they won’t be harassed. People from all walks of life, regardless of tribe, feel safe and at ease here,” the market leader said.

It is said that although there are other mammy markets in various military formations in Benue State, the one at 72 Battalion barracks stands out because of its very lively atmosphere. Saying that the mammy market holds a special place in his heart, Dr Victor Abraham, a regular customer explained, “Here, because of tight security, nobody can put a poisonous substance in your food. Whenever we gather here, we remember our forefathers. We drink and eat meat together. The good thing is that you can partake in the food even when you don’t have money because anyone can pay for it for everybody to enjoy.

“Some people come from the Air Force Base along Gboko road; others from Abuja also stop over to eat and enjoy the ambience. There are those who come from other parts of Makurdi town. We reminisce about many things and we make new friends. 

“Here, soldiers and civilians relate freely; and there’s always a sense of safety. Nothing bad happens here,” Abraham said. 

Sewuese Yodo attributed the high patronage at the market to clean and natural environment.

“We are neat here; and naturally, we don’t mix anything with our local beverage despite the hike in the price of guinea corn, which is now sold at N120,000 per bag.  People come from all over the place. I have been in this business for 10 years. In fact, my mother was doing it before I was born.

“This business is good. We have a borehole here donated by a House of Assembly member. Soldiers also gave us water. We get more patronage during festive seasons like Christmas, as well as weekends. This place is livelier during peak periods, especially Saturdays and Sundays. The market also booms more when soldiers are paid salaries. However, these days, patronage is at its lowest ebb due to the present hardship in the country.

“But for security reasons, we do not exceed 7pm here, so there is no night transaction. Most of our customers are soldiers, teachers, local government workers, mechanics and other professionals, so we get more patronage when they are paid,” she said.

Juliet Abua said, “Our parents are retired soldiers, so we were born doing business in the mammy market. It is booming and really fulfilling.”

Furthermore, Kpev Joseph, who regularly patronises the market all the way from Agan village, along the Makurdi-Lafia road said, “ this place is really special; there is nowhere like it”.

Also, Emeka Anyaoku, a former special assistant to an ex-governor of Benue State, who also patronises the market, said, “It is the atmosphere that captivates me – the lush trees, the gentle breeze. It is a place where you can breathe in pure, fresh air. The environment here is truly special. The breeze is gentle, the security is top-notch, and there is no fear of harassment. I love coming here and will continue to do so. I am grateful to the army for creating such a wonderful space.

“I urge the state government to consider providing small grants to these traders, most of whom are women. With such support, they can expand and recapitalise their businesses to further boost the local economy.”

Three businessmen – Samuel Ige, Felix Goodluck and Oscar Okam – also said they often visit the mammy market to relax because of the environment. 

“This is the best place for relaxation in Makurdi. If you come here on a Sunday you would marvel at the height of activities as everywhere is usually filled up. I live at High Level, but come here regularly to enjoy the services rendered here,” Ige said.

 

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