Henna: Farmers, marketers, artists highlight economic benefits

From Rahima Shehu Dokaji, Kano

Henna, popularly known as Lalle in the northern part of Nigeria (while the design is known as Kunshi), is the traditional art of painting the hands, feet, or body with a paste made from the powdered dried leaves of the henna plant, and sometimes with an additional touch of chemical substances.

Both the red and black henna powders are derived from the leaves, roots, and branches of the plant. The branches are harvested and dried under the open sky, while the leaves are grounded into fine powder for later transformation into a thick paste.

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Most farmers in the north grow henna but to a lesser extent, even though companies from abroad are requesting it on daily basis.

Commercially, it is packaged for use not only as artwork on the body, but also as a hair dye in Northern Nigeria, and countries like Pakistan, India, Middle East, Europe, Australia, Canada and some parts of the United States.

Henna has become a source of income for different sets of people ranging from men, women, old and young, as it has become a prominent business, right from its plantation, to its processing, and design.

Malam Abdulmuminu Haruna is a farmer in Kano, and he said they only plant henna to serve as a hedge for the protection of crops and orchards from animals.

“That notwithstanding, we sold its bag for N5,000 last year, but this year we are selling it from N10,000 upwards. Five years ago, it’s not as expensive, as the whole bag is sold at just N500 or maximum N1,000,” he said.

Henna Business

A henna plant seller at Kwari market, Musa Gwamnati, also said that the business has become a booming one that has come to stay.

“I solely depend on this business to cater to my personal and family needs, and the truth is I am living a comfortable life, so much so that I intend to introduce all my sons into the business, even though there are graduates among them.

“I am also advising youths that are jobless, or not earning enough to engage in the business, as you can rely on it for a huge income,” he said.

According to him, the reason for the boom they are witnessing is the interest of foreign companies that are producing traditional clothes, who come all the way from Guinea, Senegal, Equatorial Guinea, and Central Africa and Niger to Kurmi market just to buy bags of dried, fresh or henna powder.

“Women and hair salon owners (especially Kano) also use a processed type of henna popularly known as ‘sibka’, that dyes the hair into the black shade.

“There are also those who use the normal red one for hair protection from heat damage, be it sun damage or from styling with flat irons and blow-dryers, by nourishing it from root to tip, offering thick, luscious locks,” Gwamnati said.

I won’t leave henna design for any other work – Secondary school graduate

A young lady, who is a secondary school graduate and a modern henna artist, Maryam Muhammad Na-Allah, told Daily Trust on Sunday that she has never regretted diving into the henna designing business, as it made her the core financial helper of her parents from her teenage years.

“Ever since I learned how to do this art, I pay my school fees and that of my siblings. I can’t remember the last time I asked my parents for money to buy anything, because I now contribute a lot to the house financially,” she said.

On whether she will dump the business for a juicy employment, she said there’s no way she is going to be that ‘suicidal’.

“You see, I make a minimum of N5,000 a day, so how can I throw away this good business for a job that has no salary guarantee and longevity?

“You see this red henna design? I charge N300 per pair of hands, and if it’s for both hands and legs, it’s N800. And when it comes to brides as theirs is usually more decorative, I charge from N1,000-N2,000.

“And then there’s the hardest one which many of us artists don’t like doing – the sole tape design. This is because it requires too much time and concentration, so I normally charge N2,000 for it. And in a situation where you want both the red and black art at the same time, I charge N1,500. And the most interesting thing is, we spend just N300 to buy the art products, but we can get a profit of N5,000 and more out of it,” she said with a smile.

She also mentioned that there is home service for women but with additional charges.

“You see, I prefer this kind of service because we usually get more than the normal amount we request or hope for,” she added.

Differences between traditional and modern henna design

Apart from the traditional lalle done by the older women (mostly grandmothers), there is the modern black and red flower design, which is more popular among modern young women.

Hajiya Inna Yarinya is a grandmother living in Rimin Kira area of Kano Muncipal LG, and she said unlike modern times, lalle used to be prepared by blending the plant’s powder with water and lemon juice only.

And after leaving it to settle overnight for a vibrant fresh green colour paste, it will be applied to the body and left untouched for about six hours.

“During that time, leather was not introduced to our parts, so we use a cloth to wrap it instead. And as for the hand design, we use an instrument called ‘Zunguru’. You just pour the paste and put your hand inside for like 5-6 hours, there is no such thing as drawing flowers with the paste,” she said.

On the other hand, Na-Allah, a modern henna artist said lalle has come a long way from that ancient process.

“It’s a known fact that we are not as patient as our parents and grandparents when it comes to waiting, so chemicals and substances have now been introduced to the process, for faster and darker shades of both the red and black designs.

“For example, we now use Hydrogen for black flower design, and a scented oil called ‘Muhallabiya’ for the red one, and even a complete package of Indian and Pakistan henna products. With this, we draw and finish everything in approximately two hours,” she said.

Medical perspective

Dr Nuruddin Haladu is the chief of Nursing staff at the Bela Hospital Kano who treats skin-related diseases, and he told Daily Trust that allergic reactions to henna is very rare, considering that it is one of the safest things that you can put on your skin.

He, however, said a lot of people add chemicals, such as hydrogen peroxide or kerosine, to make it appear darker and stay longer, which in most cases causes allergic reactions.

“The allergy is limited to the area where henna is applied, but it’s nothing a dermatologist cannot cure,” he said.

Conversely, henna art evokes precious memories and cultural heritage to both the artist and the person receiving it. It also serves as a spiritual and religious practice for many (Muslims and Hindi mostly), where they can identify with their culture and discover various facets of their identities.