The Ankara has long been an integral part of African fashion. Recently, artists have begun to experiment with new methods to employ this traditional cloth in different types of art. Ankara’s integration into contemporary art forms, ranging from fabric collages to home décor, exhibits its longstanding appeal and cultural significance. Weekend Trust investigates this artistic development, which not only maintains cultural history, but also produces exquisite and distinctive pieces that honour African culture.
The Ankara fabric has been a representation of African fashion for decades. However, beyond clothing, artists are now exploring innovative ways to bring this traditional fabric to life through various forms of art. This fusion of textile and artistry not only preserves cultural heritage but also creates unique and visually stunning pieces.
The wax print fabric has a rich history that traces back to the Dutch colonialists who introduced the wax-resist dyeing technique to West Africa in the 19th century. Over the years, Ankara has become synonymous with African identity and pride. The fabric’s intricate designs and bright colours are not just aesthetic choices; they often carry symbolic meanings and tell stories about heritage, social status, and events.
Ankara in contemporary art
Artists today are pushing the boundaries of how Ankara can be used, moving it from the realm of fashion into various art forms. In a conversation with Nigerian artist, Chidinma Miracle Solomon, she explained that the choice to use African prints enables artists to express their cultural identity and heritage.
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“African prints can tell stories about the artist’s cultural background, heritage, or personal experiences, making the artwork more relatable and authentic. Fabric collage art has widely been received because it’s a beauty that cannot be neglected. It’s unique and people love to embrace uniqueness,” She added.
Speaking on her choice to be a fabric collage artist, Miracle said, “What inspired me to start working with fabrics for collages was the drive to be unique. I believe the only way to stand out in every field is to be unique.”
According to Miracle, using Ankara to create can sometimes be more difficult as compared to working with the traditional materials. She went on to say, “The process to create a fabric collage can be more stressful than having to work with the conventional methods.
“When selecting fabrics, I choose various textures, colours, and patterns to create an appealing palette. I sketch or envision the overall design, considering the placement of each piece. I then apply adhesives like glue or fusible web to attach the fabrics to the surface.
“As I build the collage, I overlap and layer fabrics to add depth and texture. I incorporate three-dimensional elements or manipulate the fabrics for raised textures. For the finishing touches, I add a backing or border and seal the artwork to protect it. Finally, I step back to reflect, evaluate, and celebrate the unique character of the completed fabric collage.”
Despite its stressful process, fabric collage can be a rewarding venture for artists as they are priced above artworks made with traditional materials. Miracle said to Weekend Trust, that the cheapest she had sold a fabric collage story telling painting is between $1000 and $200 for a commissioned portraiture.
Like all materials, working with fabric comes with its own challenges. Miracle went on to explain that, “Some of the challenges I face when working with African prints as opposed to traditional art materials include ensuring colour harmony among the diverse African prints, as they may have varying colour intensities. There is also the struggle of balancing bold African print patterns to avoid an overwhelming the composition.”
She also stated that “unlike traditional art materials, working with fabrics aren’t so cheap because the cost of fabric in the market is pretty on the high side and you have to get so many of it in different patterns, designs, textures and colours. “
Ankara in home decor
The modern use of Ankara is not limited to art canvasses; it is also making a significant impact in home décor and personal items. From upholstered furniture to bags, earrings, the fabric’s lively patterns add a touch of African elegance to any space.
Speaking to our reporter, an artisan, Promise Friday Airhumwude, who uses Ankara to make chairs and bags said that the use of Ankara was more than just a medium but also a means of turning waste into wealth.
“These items are more than just crafted pieces, it’s a means of recycling waste materials gotten from tailors”, Airhumwude said.
According to Airhumwude, Ankara is the unique representation of Africa and also a means to preserving the African culture. “Once you’re seen using an Ankara item, be it furniture or jewellery, people are inclined to think that you’re either African or have been to Africa. That way the African culture is being preserved”.
Durability is often questioned with Nigerian made products. However, Airhumwude states that to ensure durability of his products, he employs a mix of materials such as laden and maintenance guidelines that ensure a lasting effect.
Airhumwude went on to state that the business has become lucrative as people are more appreciative of made in Nigeria products. He said, “People are beginning to move away from the idea that anything with Ankara is local or traditional and are beginning to appreciate the creativity behind the pieces.
Speaking on how he prices his pieces, Airhumwude says that “Art has no price. Asides putting into consideration the cost of materials, the price depends on the added value and time used to create the piece.
Although, Airhumwde can boast of a booming business, he states that he’s still faced with challenges that if sorted could turn the industry into a multi-million naira industry.
He said, “To ensure we produce the best works, we use some foreign materials and with the surge in exchange rate, it’s proving difficult to maintain affordable price rates for our customers.
“We believe that if the government can reduce the import duties for artisans that are in the production business, that will help in the production of quality items. Also, the government should open a hub or platform that encourages the sale and purchase of Nigerian made items, that way people will be more willing to patronise”.
Another artisan, Oyebanji Yusuf told our reporter that a majority of these Ankara pieces are not bought by Nigerians as some do not appreciate the craft and mostly offer to buy them at the lowest prices.
“If I tell a customer to buy an Ankara bag at N50,000 they wouldn’t think it is worth it because it was made with fabric. Notwithstanding that these are the same fabrics we use for cloths which last for years and years.
“It’s majorly foreigners who come here and commission us to make the pieces for them or they buy what is available,” he said.
In conclusion, artists and designers are finding new ways to interpret and showcase Ankara fabric, ensuring it remains relevant in today’s world. Through exhibitions, workshops, and social media, they are sharing their works with a global audience, sparking interest and appreciation for African culture. This cultural exchange enriches the art world and fosters a deeper understanding and respect for African heritage.
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