Lost in Tokyo!

From lifelong impressions being confirmed, to an enjoyable cultural overload, the Japanese capital city proved the perfect place to get lost in, and find all kinds of new excitement.

After the long-haul flight that was my Abuja-Frankfurt-Tokyo itinerary, I arrived at the capital of Japan. After many years of absorbing the country’s rich culture via movies, books, and most recently the internet, I was going to actually experience a lot of it, courtesy of a visitor’s programme of the Japanese government. In town for the famed TICAD conference, the seventh one, I was to join a group of journalists from all around Africa. After all, it’s an even where African leaders, businessmen, and technocrats will engage their Japanese counterparts in discussing the future of the continent, and their nation.

Upon checking into my hotel, I realized I was one of the first few to arrive, and official activities would only commence the next day. What it meant was that I could drop off my luggage, take a warm shower (the weather was a bit on the chilly side), and unleash myself upon an unsuspecting Tokyo metropolis. I say ‘unleash’ because this visit is one I’ve been looking forward to. And I’ll say why: Between the cinematic masterpieces of Akira Kurosawa, the animated masterworks of Hayao Miyazaki and his Studio Ghibli, mega-popular Indian film ‘Love in Tokyo’, the sheer brilliance

of James Clavell’s Japan-set books, and the sheer inventiveness of Manga, I had a fairly more than passable knowledge of Japanese culture. And I’ve been eager to see all that I could for myself.

First, I tried to hail an Uber, but couldn’t, because the service, in Japan, does not accept cash, and I didn’t want to add my card to the app. So a regular Tokyo cab came in handy, which I hopped into. I asked the cabbie in English, to take me to the nearest Kinokuniya, one of the many in a chain of bookstores. Luckily, he spoke a little of it, and understood me. I got there, and entered the store, soon lost in an expansive selection of literary goodness that also included the works of some Nigerian writers.

Thousands of yen – and many books – later, I left and began my search for a cab. But I realized that I had exited onto a different street from the one I came. I made to head back, but changed my mind. I proceeded into the unknown, which truth be told was a massive mid-scale shopping mall. I browsed top Western brands like Lacoste, Ralph Lauren, Gucci and more, as well as established Japanese names like UniQlo. Browsing done, I exited through another platform, and ended up in a sprawling square which had a train station, a bus terminal, and a scattering of many restaurants. As it was getting dark, I was torn between getting a quick meal and exploring further. I decided on a small place which served Japanese food, as well as some impressive-looking desserts.

After my meal – which lasted all of 20 minutes – I proceeded deeper into what I discovered later to be an area of Tokyo called Shibuya. Described as ‘a special ward in Tokyo, Japan’, it is also a major commercial and business center, and it houses the two busiest railway stations in the world. It is also known as one of the fashion centers of Japan, particularly for young people, and as a major nightlife area.

Tokyo is home to roughly 13 million people, with each of the city’s 23 wards having a distinct character. After walking a while, and taking in the sights of the brilliantly lit skyscrapers and observing the chic youngsters that thronged the streets, I noticed that office closing times were reached, and the large crowds were replaced by a massive sea of black-and-white office wear-sporting professionals. At a point, when it drizzled a bit, I even observed a lot of people, mostly female, whip out transparent umbrellas, just like in future Tokyo-set sci-fi movies.

Wandering around, I found myself in a store called Loft, one of many in a chain. Incidentally, this one in Shibuya, is their largest in all of Tokyo. A bit on the high end, they specialize in stationery, fashion, household items, and so much more, all in the trademark sensible design which Japanese products are known for. I later found out that the stores are popular with both locals and international visitors, especially those looking for souvenirs or gifts. And did I find gifts! Mostly for myself, if I might add. Particularly, a Moleskine backpack that is probably the sleekest, most beautiful one I’ve ever seen. The price tag, however, is a story for another day.

My foray into Loft continued, and saw me amassing more things, as I got lost in the expansive store. Some Copic drawing pens, a tea shop with the most delightful Chai blends, mini Samurai sword keyholders, and more, all joined my stash. I even wandered into an adjoining bookstore which had only a few English language books. At a point, I looked round, and I realized that in the crowd, I was the only non-Japanese person. But the oddest part, is that I didn’t feel odd about that at all, and the staff I spoke to were all incredibly friendly and willing to help, language barrier or not.

With my Loft adventures in retail therapy done and dusted, I kept on walking the streets, as lost as I ever was. Then I caught the whiff of something so delicious, and so inviting. Looking ahead I saw flashing neon lights, brightly-lit billboards, and the waves of pedestrians, I spotted the food stalls. Yes, there was fine dining waiting for me at my hotel, which by the way was a glitzy one, I wanted to taste whatever was on offer in these hole-in-the-wall shops.  I went for Takoyaki, which is originally a staple in Osaka. The octopus-filled balls of batter slathered with a savoury-sweet sauce, drizzled with Japanese mayonnaise, and fish flakes. It’s unbelievably delicious, and surprisingly affordable. Many other delicacies, like Takoyaki, all have ‘taki’ somewhere: Okonomiyaki, Taiyaki, Yakisoba, et cetera. Apparently, ‘Yaki’ means ‘grill’.

After my street food feast, I decided on two seemingly simple quests: To find a telecoms shop and buy a Japanese SIM card, and also get a Manga store to buy yet more books, and T-shirts featuring popular characters, specifically ‘Dragonball Z’, ‘Attack on Titan’, and ‘One Piece’. My first objective initially seemed pretty straightforward, as I espied the logo of SoftBank, one of the most popular telecoms companies in Japan, alongside other colourful presentations that ran from top to bottom of whole buildings. The store, pretty much like any phone and accessories one anywhere in the world, had many kinds of offers advertised on colourful flyers.

Of course, not being able to speak the language, I asked for a SIM card in English, but the attendant couldn’t understand me.  I looked round, a bit confused, then in a Eureka moment, I whipped out my phone and invoked Google. I typed in my question, hit ‘translate’, and showed him my query. The attendant also whipped out his phone, typed fervently, and showed me the screen: ‘Visitors can’t buy SIM cards for phone calls in Japan’. ‘Oh,’ was the universal answer I could only muster, a bit stunned. The attendant typed some more, and showed me another translation: ‘But you can get a SIM that gives you internet for WhatsApp and others.’ I replied ‘Arigato,’ Japanese for ‘thanks’ and left.

With that quest down the drain, I walked down the crowded streets, and Googled for a Manga store. The results said there were a number close by, but I still needed directions. I stopped a fellow to ask, momentarily forgetting that that might not be possible. But lucky me, he replied ‘Hi!’ to my hello. It turned out that he is studying English, and he immediately offered to take me to the nearest store. Introducing himself as Shiro, we spoke, and it turned out he was a big fan of Japanese comic books and graphic novels, popularly known as Manga. He was also surprised that a Nigerian appreciated them, and I told him that the books had global appeal, consumed by fans in the UK, the United States, and more.

As soon as we reached the shop, Shiro said goodbye, wished me good luck, and vanished into the wave of people outside. I vanished too, into the store, where shelves and shelves of Manga books, T-shirts, toys and other merchandise stretched on. I must’ve roamed the aisles for 30 minutes, picking up a shirt here, an action figure there. By the time I was done, I felt fulfilled, enough to think nothing of the three shopping bags I’ve amassed so far.

I stepped out after paying, walked through long streets, junctions, crowded bus stops and endless Bic Camera stores, soaking in all the visuals. I saw a cherry-red Lamborghini, and a jet-black Rolls Royce Phantom. I also saw a large number of super cars, as well as models of Toyota I never knew existed. During my walk, it slowly dawned on me that, compared to many other big cities I’ve visited, Tokyo seemed the more personable one, if one can be permitted to describe a city like that. Yes, I had communication issues, and others, but still, it seemed like a more, for want of a better word, organic city. It had a soul. My deep introspection was, however, rudely interrupted ny the Nigerian in me, which quizzed ‘How do you get back to the hotel now?’ Many Google searches and cab-hailing epic fails later, I collapsed into the comfort of a lush, comfortable Toyota Vellfire whose driver played Korean pop music at low volume.

We drove through a landscape dense with tall skyscrapers, intertwining bridges, brilliant neon lights, and an ocean of people at traffic stops. It was all steel, glass and concrete at its most glamorous and functional: A true super city. I soaked all of that in. Back to my hotel, as I walked into the lobby, I saw some of my African counterparts who had started to arrive in a trickle. I also saw Yoko Minato, one of the lovely ladies who chaperoned us guests, and also acted as translators, and she smiled. ‘Went out for bit?’ she asked, smiling. ‘I got lost in Tokyo,’ I replied. She looked at me, somewhat horrified. ‘But I enjoyed it,’ I reassured her, and her smile returned.